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How To Make A Clock?

I make the sub-assembly that will show the time; the motion work and hands. There are a whole lot of parts that go into making this sub-assembly. It’s a reduction How To Make A Clock gear train that takes the single hourly rotation of the center. Arbor and reduces it by 12. So that the hour hand moves one full revolution every 12 hours. It’s a compact design that uses concentric sliding fits to great effect. The pinions and wheels for this part of the theme Chan ism were cut at the same time. As I made episode 4, but of course the wheels still need to be crossed out, so let’s get started. The order in which I make the parts is important for this part of the build. Because there are some quite close tolerances required to make all its work. I’ll need to have some of the parts completed before I start working on others so that I can do some test fitting. I need to start from the outside of the mechanism and work in it, which means the first parts to be made are the hands.

A simple paper template marks out the perimeter of the part, as well as the whole positions. I drilled out the holes undersized so that I could use a reamer to get the precise final dimension. The hands were then roughed out from the parent stock using the How To Make A Clock scroll saw. The finger plate tool is perfect for holding these awkward small parts. I use a band saw to bring the edges closer to the line. And I should mention that this 1" belt sander is an effective tool for removing metal. This is one of most machines in the store. As usual, I've left a small amount of metal outside the line. So that I can bring the parts to the final dimension using needle and escapement files. At this stage, the profile is pretty much where I want it. So I used a light solvent to remove the paper templates and then began preparing the parts for final bluing. Now I've had a lot of requests for more information on the bluing process.

Another is a minute handle with a side flap.With a square hole in the center for mounting on the minute pipe. For the most part, it’s a straight forward turning job, to form the stepped profile. Although one edge has a contoured shape that provides a great How To Make A Clock excuse for some hand turning with a graver. As a made-up profile, drilled from the center and braked. And now he flew to the end to put it in his hand for a minute. The tricky bit to form of course is that square hole, which needs to be dead on center, as well as square. Now a rotary broach would work well if I had one, or I could use files. Like I did for the ratchet wheel, but instead, I'll be using this arbor press and a custom-made push through broach. The center hole I drilled a moment ago is a close fit for the pilot diameter of the broach. And this ensures that the cut is on the axis of the part. With a generous coating of cutting fluid, the arbor press is used to push the broach through. The result is well-positioned and dimensioned. Square hole, with an excellent surface finish.

How To Make A Clock

How I made that square broach another small part required for the minute. The hand is this little end cap; again a straightforward piece of turning. And an even better excuse to bring out an assortment of the graver to form the curved profile. According to the How To Make A Clock previous section, the object was excavated. These dates are a bit inaccurate, but the store's extra charges have been raised. And it completes the two parts done in minutes. Next is the watch tube. It is a type of clock that moves the hands of the clock to one side and the gears of the clock to the other. It needs to be a close sliding fit on what’s called the minute pipe, the bit on the inside that slips over the center arbor. The hour hand fits on the end with an interference fit on a short taper. And I'm forming that taper using a needle file. After five hours of approval, the board was able to rabbit. Subsequent corrections are necessary. To turn a wheelchair, the room must be seated. But in general, the use of air locks protects against this short period of time. It is difficult to have a target that would cover that area.

There’s not enough inside the collet, and as it closes down it distorts and throws the part off-center. I find one way to get around the problem is to push How To Make A Clock a small scrap of the same size. Into the rear of the collet, and then put the part in as normal. The collet grips as if it’s holding a continuous part down its center, and gives the accuracy you expect. The seating for the hour wheel was then turned, so that like the hour hand. It’s held in place with an easy interference fit. Now I may choose to bond these parts in place, but for now. I'll leave them as is, so that can still disassemble them in the future. OK, now for the minute Pipe. And it’s a complex little part, that's designed to be squeezed in the middle so that it grips onto the center arbor. He moves the minute wheel in one minute and space in the other to get a minute hand. The first task is to drill the stock and then place it near the middle sea.

That is why a profile is formed of the dimensions that are recorded in the future. With a little help, protect yourself from the back seat until the turn. The part was How To Make A Clock was then transferred to the mill to form the end square and remove the material from the middle. Back to the lathe to part off, and then the seating for the minute wheel was turned. Again aiming for an easy interference fit, so that the wheel can still be removed if required. Quickly sort the needle files and this is a complete tube. Next up is the mid-range wheel. Enter the center panel of the medial midline. Wheel and middle sprocket. So you need a thread on one side and a smooth, nice surface on the other. I’m forming this from a length of square o1tool steel so that it can be hardened and polished later. Although I'm leaving it annealed until I’ve had a chance to get a look at it in place and decide. If I have to make small changes. I’m also leaving the arbor section a little over length for the same reason. I’ll reduce that to the final length, once I’ve put in the cross whole for the clock pin.

The wheels need to be crossed out, and as for all the previous wheels, I’m using this jig to mark out the crossings. The scroll saw was used to remove the bulk of the waste stock, and then. I used the bench filing machine to further clean up the cut, in preparation for How To Make A Clock for final finishing. The final finishing was completed with needle and escapement files. Followed by light paper with soft sandpaper. Then sand the entire inner surface evenly. Paper and light varnish emphasize the rest of the surface, and the wheels are ready for installation. Okay, that completes the overall engine and some details. Can now be pressed into place on their respective seats. Next, I need to depth the position of the intermediate wheel stud, so it can be fitted to the front plate. And as for the wheel of the going train, I’m using the deep thing tool to do the job. The fine crew moves the wheels closer together until I can see and feel the smoothest meshing of the teeth. I will use a tapered clock pin to make the process correct. So I can put in a cross whole for the pin now, and also tidy up the end of the arbor. I put in a similar hole for the intermediate stud, and then hardened, tempered, and polished it. So finally, after a whole lot of work, let’s put all this together.

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